Gemstone Setting Types : Closed and Open Settings

Gemstone Setting Types : Closed and Open Settings

There are two basic types of gemstone settings: open settings and closed settings. Open settings are any type of setting that allows light to enter through the bottom of a faceted or transparent cabochon gemstone.

In a "closed setting" light can only enter the stone from the top. This type of setting is appropriate for opaque cabochon-cut stones and highly refractive faceted stones where light can enter through the crown and table of the stone and be reflected back to the observer from within.

Open Gem Setting Types

Prong Settings

Within the category of "open settings" there are several variations. The most common variety for faceted gemstones is a prong setting (below, left), with either 3 or 4 prongs that hold the stone in place. This type of setting exposes the maximum amount of light to the sides and bottom.


Carré setting

A Carré setting is where the stone is seated directly over a light well (above, right), and the stone is set by raising (hammering) four "spurs" with a "graver" tool.

Tension Settings

A "tension setting" uses the metal's natural tendency to "spring" back to its original position to hold the stone in place. The metal is spread apart, and the girdle of the stone is seated into small grooves in the inside surface of the metal. This type of setting requires special alloys of metal that are strong enough to create and withstand the necessary pressure to hold the stone firmly. Tension settings are only appropriate for very hard stones (Hardness of 9 to 10: diamond, ruby, sapphire, cz or moissanite).


Frustum Settings

A Frustum, or "Hollow Cone" setting is a conical or tapered setting constructed from sheet metal. The stone's pavilion rests against the inside of the cone and the outer edge of the cone's lip is bet over the girdle to secure the stone. A frustum setting can be open or closed.

Closed Gem Setting Types

Variations of the closed setting are the "bezel” setting, channel setting, cluster setting, Kundan setting, frustum setting, Pavé, and the seamless tube setting.

Bezel Settings

The oldest and most basic gemstone setting is the "Bezel". Used primarily to set cabochons, a vertical strip of metal is formed to encircle the stone, then soldered to a metal base. The stone is secured by pushing and bending the bezel towards the stone using a burnishing tool.


Channel settings

Channel settings are primarily used to set faceted gemstones that are straight-sided, or quadrilateral in shape (baguette or princess cut). The stones are aligned in a channel, sitting girdle-to-girdle. step-cut stones can rest on a track giving a "keystone" effect. Matching stones that are cut to a uniform size for use in channel settings are called "calibré-cut," as in "Eternity Rings."


Pavé Settings

A Pavé Setting is a tight grouping of identically sized stones laid across a flat, or convex surface, from the French word for "paved." The stones are held in place using three to six raised beads per stone.

GEM Color Pallete

Below is a Color pallet chart just for ur refrence might help u with color and stones.



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Trendy

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3D Nature

Jewelry this season is a bejeweled museum of natural history. Buds and blossoms are fresh off the stem. Animals, birds, and insects have legs and ears, wings and beaks. Fruit is ripe and round, ready for picking.

Although nature has long inspired the jeweler’s art, these three-dimensional models are no longer confined to the whimsical brooch. Roses perch on the finger. A vine twists around the wrist. Wings extend and jewelry takes flight into new levels of dimension. Pieces both small and large have taken on more depth.

Geometry

Geometry remains important this year, with the never-ending circle pendant now joined by ovals, spirals, and other shapes. But geometry has also taken a leap into 3D with pieces that feature spheres. Globular pendants, dangles,earring drops, and beads are adding dimension to styles at all price points this season. Some styles also feature spherical beads and pearls. The most popular styles have openwork spherical cages to add volume without too much weight. Some styles are modern, others delicate filigree. But all add depth to geometrical design.

SUMMER TRENDS 2007

SUMMER TRENDS 2007

As the weather warms, the fine jewelry forecast for Spring is bright. According to fashion designers this season, the color white just looks right. It also happens to be the perfect canvas for those who like to accessorize with colorful gemstone jewelry and intricate precious metal creations that will not be ignored. Some key trends in fine jewelry that are sure to attract keen shoppers include:

Necklaces

Choker style necklaces pair perfectly with turned up collar shirts
Colorful gemstones formed into a V-shape are made to look like a pretty bib
Chain link necklaces come in extra long to allow for wrapping .Charms that can be added and removed to necklaces create a more personalized look. Little layered pendants with initials, personal symbols or words are perfect for women of any age

Bracelets

Charm bracelets that used to take years to build are now ready made and ready to wear, thanks to designers who offer the look for the less patient. Cuff bracelets made from smooth dark ebony wood or those that feature a rainbow of colorful gemstones are the “it” accessory of the season
Thick or thin, bangles stacked up have high impact

Rings

Large bands with minimal details such as a simple engraving or organic scrollwork are nice alternatives to oversized cocktail rings.Stacking rings that have a new slant are easy to wear and high on style. Pick coordinating colored gemstones, your birthstone or solid precious metal versions.Diamonds for daytime? If you got ‘em, flaunt ‘em. Diamond right hand rings and eternity bands are the perfect way to punch up those designer jeans

Earrings

The hoopla over hoop earrings continues. Oversized versions, as preferred by celebrities like Beyoncé Knowles also appeal to the brave at heart. Fear not though, all sized hoops are stylish this season. Sets of three earrings that coordinate, not match, are making waves this Spring.